Sergiev Posad is the spiritual and religious centre of Russia and was founded in 1340 by St Sergius though he wasn’t a saint then !

And probably didn’t have a pigeon on his head !!

Came here last year but didnt realise that it was Trinity Sunday and that the Patriach (think Pope with Jewels) who is based here some of the time, was processing (strutting his stuff) and security was so tight that we couldn’t get into the main cathedrals.

That was last year,   Anyway its the 1st stop on a tour of the Golden Ring so went back for more…

So “did” the Cathedrals and then a 3 hour white knuckle drive to Vladimir……………

Vladimir

Vladimir was founded in the 12th century by another of the Princes of Kiev called – you guessed it Prince Vladimir,    It became the capital of Kievian Rus and Grand Prince Bogoliubsky (more of him later) built two of what are the oldest buildings in Russia – The Cathedral of the Assumption and The Cathedral  of St Dimetrius.     They are at least 200m apart and both were constructed out of limestone with the help of some imported Italian architects and craftsmen, and are masterpieces both inside and out, with exquisite carvings covering the exterior which the photos do not do justice……..

Here a detail of the carving taken from the guidebook………

Then onto the Golden Gate which used to be the main gate into the city until Catherine The Great got her carriage stuck going through it and had the surrounding walls and ramparts demolished.   Since when it has been somewhat redundant !!    But it is still nearly 1000  years old and pretty impressive !!

Needless to say its got a church on top it as everything does around here !

Next a quick drive down the road to Bogoliubovo where Prince Andrei Bogoliubsky decided to build his own residence and set of churches etc.

Bogoliubovo

His most stunning of which is the Church of the Intercession built where two rivers meet in the middle of nowhere.    Its over a miles hike to get there from the nearest road but as I mentioned the Russians don’t or certainly didn’t do roads !    It rises up out the the flood plain and in winter after the rain is invariably completely surrounded by water.

Same design, same Italian influence but absolutely gob-smacking.

Then another hours drive to Suzdal which is still a small community, but with 15 monasteries and umpteen churches, is like stepping back 1000 years.    Apart from the fact that I arrived at my hotel in the middle of an Yves Rocher (I think they do beauty products – not chocolate !)  sales convention and for reasons that I will never get to the bottom of, I was allocated the honeymoon suite complete with 4-poster bed, double bath, shagging platform in front of  a fireplace and enough heart shaped cushions to drive you dilly.    Anyway this was to be home for the next two nights.    Photos of Suzdal to follow in my next upload but here are some of the accommodation……..

You get the idea !!???………..

More later as we move onto Kostroma and Varoslavyl by which time onion dome fatigue and Icon overload starts getting confusing so bear with me……………R

PS – My trusty guide Lyuba informs me that there is an old Russian proverb that goes along the lines of.. “There a two major problems in Russia – The  roads and fools”.    She was certainly right about the first bit !!

The Golden Ring is a string of towns (some now large cities) within 200km of Moscow.    Most were founded between the 9th & 12th centuries when what we now think of as Russia was ruled from Kiev – That’s right Kiev in today’s Ukraine !!!    A very busy chap called Yuri Dolgoruky founded most of them before going on to found Moscow in 1147.

Most of them at some stage were nominated as the capital of Kyivan Rus – Russia to you and me.     Uncountable Churches, Cathedrals and Monasteries were built.    Most have been totally trashed by invaders including the Mongols, Swedes, Poles, French and of course the Germans and indeed the Bolsheviks .     However major restoration has taken place continually and so still exist in all their glory – and boy it is glory – today.

The “Ring” is about 1000Km and is quite a challenge for many reasons inducing the following –

Roads are a recent concept in Russia as for centuries (before railways) rivers were the only way to get about.     The roads that do exist away from the major cites are a total shambles and I still haven’t quite worked out on which side of the road they drive, except to say that they do it at breakneck speed, so have spent the last few days in the back seat of a car with white knuckles, eyes closed and prayers said !!

Also apart for my trusty interpreter and guide Lyuba not a word anything other than Russian was spoken or heard.    My Russian is restricted to about 5 words but with my trusty phrasebook and some pidgin Spanish I was able to order a beer and get fed !!

So here we go – In at the deep end !!

OK – So the Kids have been packed of to Summer Camp – Yes they fell for it again !!

Dropped into London for some retail therapy before a fab – though somewhat bucolic evening at the Chelsea Arts Club – and a reunion with Sam (our wonderful doctor from last years Blue Train adventure) so much to catch up on !!

Off to Heathrow at dawn for the flight to Moscow – British Airways – You’ve got to love those Air Miles !

Arrived at the Ararat Park Hyatt in time to watch the sun go down on the Kremlin from the roof terrace, with the Boshoi Theatre just below.     Entertained by grotesque Oligarch and his fawning coterie of wives, mistresses, sisters and “models” (at least a dozen).    It was like a scene of McMafia though fortunately without the guns !!    Decided not to take a close up but this photo should give you the idea !!

Early night as setting off on my Golden Ring Tour first thing.      Lots to follow as have just got back to Moscow after 4 day – 1000 Km road trip – 8 cities and more icons and onion domes than you can possibly imagine.    Lots of photos to follow.    Battling with a new lap-top (Spanish Keyboard !!) and a Russian SIM card. So taking a while to get up to full blogging speed.     In Moscow for the next 4 nights before boarding the Volga Dream for a 6 night cruise up the Volga to St Petersburg.     Will send this now so that I can remember how it all works.

This country is still extraordinary with new surprises around every corner……..

R

This “time lapse” map of Europe shows how European borders have fluctuated in the past 1000 years.    Keep your eye on Ukraine (Lithuania) & Crimea etc which were both there before Russia (as we know it today) even existed !!

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Worth a scroll down if you havent seen it before !!