The End of An Era
It is with a heavy heart that I have to let you all know that Izzy has been battling a nasty Lymphoma on her throat for a few months and on Friday she finally gave me that “Bully Look” that meant “time to go”. She has crossed the Rainbow Bridge and gone to join Cleo and Mambo and the others. Needless to say I am pretty gutted as she was a wonderful dog and we had many amazing times and adventures together !!
It is the end of an era for me having had Bullies in my Pack for over 30 years. I have been sorely tempted to get another, but I am not as strong as I used to be, and think it wisest if I stick to my selection of Spanish rescue dogs to keep me company.
My Bull Terriers have always been the core of my team and especially my Dikram Trio who were all amazing !!!
I have many memories of her adventures and escapades. Probably the most memorable was when Izzy and Mambo decided to explore Central London as soon as RWP arrived to set up camp in Green Park for the Diamond Jubilee. Izzy was brought back by one of the off duty Royal Protection officers heading for Westminster Bridge while Mambo had made his way into one of the “stalls” in the Royal Mews and was entertaining the Queen’s horses etc !
Izzy overcame many medical and health crises but in total Bull Terrier style defied all the experts and always bounced back !!! This was one “bounce” too many and we were forced to surrender. Needless to say she has left a large hole in the household but the rest of the pack are in fine form and keeping me on my canine toes !!
Meanwhile I am going stir crazy down here…………
My November return trip to Myanmar is looking increasingly doubtful as the dreaded virus continues to sweep the planet. As soon as Pandaw resume their river cruising schedule, and it is logistically possible and safe to do so, I will be there. The Dogs Jigsaws and Netflix continue to keep me relatively sane, as I watch from the sidelines, as the world goes mad and Covid 19 triggers consequences and crises that a few month ago were unimaginable !!! Respect for, and sympathy with, many of the worlds “leading” countries is diminishing. Lets hope that the bickering and conspiracy lunacy goes away and we all get through this nightmare safe and sane. Right now the future does not look great !!!
Pack Update – August 2020
Got back from my Myanmar trip in early December just in time for stunning result in UK Election, and an end in site to the interminable Brexit uncertainty. Australia was on fire and there was a rumour of a new flu virus coming out of China.
Hurley arrived from Adana (local dog rescue). One of a litter of 10 puppies abandoned on the mountain behind Estepona along with their mother .
Nick & Sara had already adopted Zeus & Apollo – two of Hurley’s brothers so it keeps them “in the family”. Their mother was a German Shepherd cross and subsequent DNA tests have indicated that Dad was a cross between a Brittany Spaniel, an English Cocker Spaniel, and various other Spanish Herding/Sporting/Hound breeds. Loves swimming and destroying sofas and cushions and eating carpets (anything actually)! However he has fitted in well, is much loved, and has bonded with the rest of the team (now back up to 5).
Fast forward 2 Months…………
The Chinese flu rumour has escalated to a full blown global pandemic. Seemingly unstoppable, and with Europe as the current epicenter, the world has gone into panic mode and damage control. Most countries have sealed their borders and implemented drastic policies of “lock down” and Social Isolation/Distancing. Here in Spain, the entire population has been ordered to stay at home and avoid all travel and external contact with other humans. The Police and Army are on the streets enforcing the lock down and any trips to pharmacies and food shops are controlled and limited. All shops, bars & restaurants are closed, But then, unless you have been hiding in a cave for the past few weeks, you probably know all of this already !! Depending on what country you find yourself in, and what control measures are in place, it is a very different and scary world out there !!! All sorts of shit going down and the world has gone into medical and economic meltdown !!
Fake News and other Bullshit
Conspiracy theorists are having a field day and Social Media is full of “fake news” and other misinformation, which is quite frankly bullshit. There are a very few “rays of sunshine” emerging and even fewer, sources of reliable information. The health services in most countries are stretched to (if not beyond) the limit but are doing an amazing job as they try to keep up with ever changing nightmare scenarios.
Communities are rallying together to support each other, There are unfortunately still many folk who are in denial about the gravity of the situation. Also some arseholes who are refusing to comply and thereby putting other peoples lives and well-being in jeopardy !!
I will try to stick to what I consider to be reliable sources which include:
- World Health Organisation
- NHS (UK)
- HSE (Spain)
- BBC Website
So conspiracy theorists and bullshitters Look Away Now !!!
I will also include anything that I consider positive or that will put a smile on my/your face !!
Lets start with Danni Ravden – https://danniravden.com/ Her Svetlana, Chantelle and Lemon personas are fantastic !!!
I will post this now and update as and when I get bored or there is stuff worth publishing !! Stay Safe.
Left Kalaw high up in the mountains. An old colonial Hill Station and now a sizeable metropolis. This was the only city/town/village on this trip so far, that was not an overwhelming sea of smiley faces and welcoming locals. Even my guide (who is from the area) confessed that she was happy to move on !! A centre for the military administration and the corrupt generals who run and are doing their best to ruin Myanmar and my first, and so far only, glimpse of the “dark underbelly” that so often festers in these wonderful Asian countries.
A two hour drive down to the idyllic Inle Lake. Everything here is either built over, floating on, or sadly sinking into the lake, This includes houses, markets, gardens and restaurants etc. Agriculture and needless to say fishing are the mainstays of the economy. Vast fields of tomatoes and a myriad of other crops floating on rafts of weed and linked with a series on narrow canals and creeks.
Virtually everything is accessed by boat, including the tourist infrastructure which tragically has “fallen of a cliff” in the past few years as a result of the adverse publicity and international reaction to the Rohingya genocide etc. Large 4/5 star resorts lie empty and in many cases closed down. Meanwhile the corrupt few who own and run this country continue to build more resorts which lie unfinished and empty, while they also spend a fortune on renovating and building new pagodas and stupas everywhere. A few tourists (French mainly and the inevitable Chinese) including Yours Truly still come here to explore and enjoy the tranquil surroundings while the local population struggle to make ends meet. The usual story that the kids are all heading to the cities and a huge range of local skills & crafts that have been handed down through generations are fading away and slowly sinking both economically and physically into the lake !!
The usual collection of amazing faces and a veritable forest of Stupas and Pagodas.
Lots of well nourished temple dogs. The Milk Bar is open…
Sunset and Sunrise over Inle Lake and then a flight to Yangon for a quick city tour terminating at the gobsmacking Shwedagon Pagoda. The biggest and goldest and holiest in Myanmar and the logical place to watch the sunset before heading back to Home which involves 4 flights and hours of hanging about in airports etc.
Street food in China town. Decided not to risk it so back to the safety on hotel cuisine.
These folk have a lot to learn about tourism and service and cant keep blaming it all on the “Generals”. They are constantly “shooting themselves in the foot”. Yesterday as the Shewdagon Pagoda I bought a guidebook that promptly started to fall apart. Priced in $$s they refused to accept a brand new $100 bill as it had an ink stain on it. It was part of the watermark !!! Then refused a $20 bill because the picture *Abraham Lincoln” was old and out of date ! I explained the he was dead but to no avail. Their currency meanwhile often looks like it has been through the mangle in a sewer and definitely warrants much hand washing after handling etc. I was probably the only customer they had had all day !!
A wonderful country, and am booked back next year for another month. I fear that they will take many generations (if ever) to recover from their history and legacy. So I highly recommended it as a place to visit before it descends into further anarchy and total chaos !!
Steer clear of the cities. The rivers are the way to explore this extraordinary country and have been the transport arteries for thousands of years. The roads are virtually non-existent !!
Am home now with happy dogs and a new addition to the pack – Hurley – brother of Zeus & Apollo – Nick and Sara’s latest additions to their family.
So far so good in that Max seems to have accepted him.
Happy Xmas !!
Back down into the valley – A 4000 ft. drop in altitude and LOTS of hairpin bends etc. The camp is amazing and houses 8 elephants rescued from various traumas and living out their retirement in 200 acres of jungle with 24/7 TLC and veterinary care. All survivors of the now defunct teak logging industry where their services were replaced by the introduction of the chain saw. Much rejection, neglect, trauma and abuse followed.
These 8 were the lucky ones !!!! Amazing !!!
An honour and privilege so get up close and personal with these amazing creatures. The photos speak for themselves. 7 females and one male (easily recognisable by his HUGE appendage !!) Varying in age from 8 to 68. The photos speak for themselves……………So I will put them in large format.
That was the feeding – yes that is my hand in her mouth. Then came the bathing……..
Then more feeding before his mahout brought the male in for a pedicure…..
Another delicious lunch and them back up the wiggly road to Kalaw, its market and train station. Back in the lodge with Christmas Carols and log fires blazing/blaring as the 82 staff members put up the Xmas decorations for us 7 or so guests. Internet access still remarkably still there (albeit a tad sluggish). Will publish this now,
Off to Inle Lake tomorrow for two days of Stupa overload and floating everything. You have to do this !!!
After the Beach Party we got to say farewell to our Crew who were amazing and had looked after us all in typically brilliant and smiley Pandaw style !!!
Needless to say there was more somewhat cringe-worthy audience participation
Final sunset & sunrise before disembarkation at dawn for a short, though a tad delayed, flight from Mandalay to Heho where I was met by my new guide & driver combo and off to see caves and golden Buddhas . A photo stop to see some rice winnowing just before their lunch break,
We stopped for delicious lunch is a local home en route
Caves and Buddhas and some flight crew, posing for selfies The caves guarded by a large spider who was slain by a fearless archer way back. Or so the Buddhist story goes………….
A stop off for paper and umbrella making demo.
Then lengthy drive into the mountains to Kalaw – 5000 ft up and many hairpin bends later arrived at Kalaw Hill Lodge – home for the next two nights and a definite “chill in the air”. Not many fellow guests, apart from a loud Chinese family (just for a change !!) but a delicious dinner with log fires blazing and Xmas Carols playing in the background. Yet again very surreal !!
Relatively early night. As off to see the Elephants tomorrow……………
Watch this space as it was mind blowing !!
After the Largest brick pile and Bell, it was back to the ship for lunch and then a short cruise upstream for another “unscheduled” village visit. Huge marble quarries in the distance and the usual “life along the banks” !
These guys were peanut and rice farmers with a motley array of livestock including cows, oxen, chickens and some Huge pigs. As usual there was much hospitably and giggling and the whole village gradually came out to greet us. First the mooring and then the livestock….
Lots of smiley people and a new pal ….
We cast off and cruised across to a large sandbar in the middle of the river where we moor up and the crew relocate all the deck furniture for Happy Hour. Disco and conga dancing to Abba, Neil Diamond and Michael Jackson. Hot air balloon/lanterns that never got hot enough and some rather lame fireworks. Somewhat cringe-worthy but some of my fellow passengers loved it ! The highlight of their vacation etc !!! No Comment !!!!!
Then back on board for dinner. A village visit today to see pots see BIG pots being made.
Then back on board to start packing as the cruise portion of the trip comes to an end. Two days at an Elephant sanctuary and two days on Inle Lake (floating markets and more Stupa overload). Then 1 1/2 days in Yangon (Rangoon) before the long haul home via Bangkok , Heathrow and Malaga and the reality of Elections and Brexit etc. Go Boris and get it done for Gods sake !!!!!
Since leaving Yandabo a couple of days age we have been cruising up to Mandalay and other towns and cities. A relentless series of amazing experiences and photo ops. In order to catch up will post a load of photos with brief explanations etc. Several villages along the riverbanks when we start to wonder who is more fascinated by who. The facial expressions (Happy !!) say it all…
Sunsets and Sunrises at a variety of locations including the U-Bean Bridge ( the longest Wooden bridge in the world).
A selection of paintings and faces to get started ….
The unfinished Pagoda which is the largest brick structure in the world. Had King ??? not run out of bricks and money it would have been higher that the Great Pyramid at Giza. Then it was hit by a huge earthquake which cracked and sealed its fate. Also the large working bell in the world and other mind blowing sights. A multitude of friendly faces selling all sorts of stuff.
Some of the merchandise and more faces….
A selection of the boats and ships (including our loyal Kanee Pandawt at various moorings) that we have encountered on our journey. This huge river is very shallow except in the rainy season when it floods and water levels rise – in some places by 20 meters). The sandbanks and islands, visible in the photos and a Google Maps screenshot, become submerged and are constantly emerging in different locations which makes navigation quite a challenge !!
Monks (in dark red robes) and Nuns (in pink) and foreing (in saffron) are everywhere. All with shaved heads which makes it a tad tricky to work out monks from nuns, apart from the colour of their robes !! Many clutching their cell phones which have just arrived in Myanmar……….
Needless to say more Pagodas, Stupas and Buddhas everywhere…
And should you want to buy a Buddha they come in all shapes and sizes !! Also hand pounded gold leaf that covers them all……….
Dogs everywhere but all healthy and fed and taken care because they are Buddhists.. A neutering programme wouldn’t go amiss !! But all seem content …….
The cruising part of this adventure is coming to an end and we are moored on a sandbank in the middle of this extraordinary river while the crew are setting up all the deck furniture for a beach barbecue. So will post this now and more photos and stuff will follow tomorrow……….
A walking tour of Yandabo this morning. Famous for the place where some treaty was signed between Burmese & Brits. Needless to say it didn’t last !!
Now Yandabo is famous for making terracotta pots. Lots of mind numbing discussion about why they don’t make them with flat bottoms !! Had to walk away !!
Lots of friendly smiling faces including the 92 year old cheroot smoking Matriarch who stole the show !
The Kids Are Alright !!
Latest Selection from The Gang at Posh Pets. I clearly don’t have to worry about them then !!
Bagan is one of many of the ancient capitals of Burma. Boasting literally 1000s of temples and pagodas spread over a vast area on both sides of the Irrawaddy. Denied World Heritage Status until July 2019 due to some of the restoration techniques used, and the fact that “The Generals” keep building bigger and better monuments to ensnare preferential treatment, for them selves, in the next life. Both are strict no-nos in the bureaucratic world of UNESCO !!
Two days here. The first was largely wasted due a tip to visit a lacquer factory and attempts to be coerced into buying very expensive (beautiful – agreed) lacquer-ware. I resisted as am still trying to work out where to put the lacquer-ware that I bought back from Cambodia. De-cluttering and all that !!
So lots of impressive ruined temples etc amid a sea of smiling, happy people. Amazing considering !! The power of Buddhism I guess !?!?!
I will combine photos from both days so excuse the odd sunset that may appear in the middle !
Back to the boat for lunch and a very entertaining Elephant dance (No elephant but 2 strapping kids pretending to be one!)
So lots of impressive ruined temples etc amid a sea of smiling, happy people. Amazing considering !! The power of Buddhism I guess !?!?!
Please note the “No Kicking Buddha” rule amongst others ! I will combine photos from both days so excuse the odd sunset that may appear in the middle !
More to follow……..